Sarajevo, known as the Jerusalem of Europe, is a city of all religions, which has a special scene during the month of Ramadan. Almost all Ramadan atmosphere is prevailed among the Old Town of Sarajevo, known as the historic Ottoman part or simply called Baščaršija.
Let’s find out what is so special during Ramadan in Sarajevo.
ABOUT RAMADAN
Ramadan is the holy month of Muslim community, practiced for 30 days, where fasting is observed every day. Fasting starts by the time of sunrise (Sehur) and ends by the start of sunset (Iftar). During that period, it is not allowed either to drink or eat. The reason is to be grateful for small things, that usually people forget during their life.
According to this practice, the society in Sarajevo gathers during the night period and the city gets an amazing night Ramadan vibe. Food and drinks are shared and people with different beliefs are also invited to eat and socialize. How cool is that? Let’s see what should you visit and do as a tourist during Ramadan in Sarajevo.
BREAKING THE FAST AT SUNSET
Breaking fast or Iftar time can be done on many locations in Sarajevo, but one location is very special. Iftar at Yellow Fortress or Bastion (Žuta Tabija), will surely present you the best tradition and culture of Ramadan in Sarajevo. The Yellow fortress in Sarajevo is easily visible from almost every corner of the Old Town. Located on the very first hill of Baščarsija, that can easily be reached by foot, providing the best panorama sight of the city. Just before Iftar time starts, there will be a local in a traditional Ottoman clothes with a small historic canon from 18th century, filled with canon powder and fire it to the middle part of the city, which is also visible from the Yellow Fortress. The whole city then hears a small ‘boom’ sound from firing the canon powder and it is actually a sign that you can break your fast. People start to eat and share their food and drinks, while watching the amazing scenery at Yellow Fortress viewpoint. Furthermore, all mosques will turn their lights on their minarets, while the night is slowly covering the city.
Restaurants and cafes are serving delicious traditional dishes and drinks, which can be easily founded at Baščaršija zone and brought to Yellow Fortress, or simply sitting in a restaurant and having Iftar. Some of the restaurants that we would recommend are Ćevabdžinica Hodžic, Ferhatović or Mrkva, Buregdžinica Bosna, Aščćinica ASDŽ, Dženita restaurant and the traditional house of Bosnian food called ‘Inat Kuća’.
THE TRADITION OF DOMESTIC BREAD ‘SOMUN’ AND RAMADAN MEALS
Somun is a traditional round bread, derived from Turkish cuisine, served during Ramadan month, but also during whole year in Ćevapi shops, the main street food of Sarajevo, known as small Bosnian sausages. There is no possibility to imagine Sarajevo during Ramadan in bakeries, restaurants and homes, without Somun.
Somun is also known as a traditional Balkan bread with special preparation methods, that can be observed in bakeries at Baščaršija during Ramadan. It can be served in many sizes, but always flat, thick and rounded. Whole process is done by hands and baked in special ovens with wood fire.
The bakeries with longest traditional preparation of Somun are Porićanin, Alifakovac and Aiša, that will let you to enjoy and observe its preparation and make pictures or videos of it for your memories from Sarajevo.
Be sure to be invited by the people in Sarajevo to try, in the open-air Iftar spots, a dish called ‘Topa’. Topa is traditionally prepared pre-meal with Kajmak (cheesy cream), eggs, different types of cheese and slight amount of butter, in which you dip a piece of Somun and eat together with it.
Besides Topa, many people would serve the Bey’s soup, a delicious and very creamy chicken soup, combined with numerous vegetables, also dipped with traditional flat bread, Somun.
If you do not find the Bey’s soup in open-air Ramadan spots, we recommend to visit Stari Grad Ascinica restaurant, as the spot with oldest recipe of Bey’s soup.
For the lovers of sweet delights, do not miss to try out Bosnian baklavas, different from Turskish baklavas in shape, size and ingredients. Our recommendation for Baklava is surely Baklava dućan, located on the left side of Gazi Husrev Bey mosque. This shop has a unique prepared baklava called ‘Žandar baklava’, a recipe from the owner family of Baklava Dućan, being more than 200 years old.
Do not hesitate to try various traditional dishes of Sarajevo during Ramadan. You will then understand why Bosnian cuisine is rated as the most delicious in Western Balkan area.
SARAJEVO BETWEEN IFTAR AND SEHUR TIME
Visiting and exploring Sarajevo between Iftar time and Sehur shows a special connection between the society of all religions in the city. During this night atmosphere the city will be very crowded and live, with people gathering and shops being opened almost all night.
The shops we recommend are also traditional and historical landmarks of Sarajevo, as Morića-Han complex, Damask café and others. Just imagine a city which becomes alive during the night scene.
IMPORTANT CONCEPT OF BOSNIAN COFFEE
The Bosnian coffee ‘Bosanska Kahva’ is a whole social concept, which we do not see only as a tradition or culture, but most important role for socialization. Please imagine ordering a Bosnian coffee and sitting for 2 hours in a café, where the connection between friends, family or random coffee lovers is so accurate and connected. People in Sarajevo can just randomly start chatting with you in any coffee spot, seeing it as the meeting place for whole society and showing no boundaries among it.
The Bosnian coffee is different from Italian espresso, due that it is not filtered coffee, being 3 to 4 times stronger than Italian espresso. So, be careful how much you would drink it, we recommend one portion of it per day. Also, as Italians traditionally do not like to put ketchup on pizza, we do not practice sugar in the coffee glass. With the Bosnian coffee, the cafes will serve you a solid and cubed sugar, which you take with your hands, dip half of it in the coffee glass, then you bit that half and take a shot of coffee together with it.
The reason is not only traditional, but since it is not filtered coffee, if you would put the sugar in the coffee glass and mix it, all the unfiltered miniature beans will come to your mouth. If the process is not clearly understandable this way, feel free to ask a local to show you. They will be more than welcomed and also proud to teach you.
If you are willing to buy souvenirs and you do not know what to take, our strong recommendation is to visit the Coppersmith street in Bašćaršija, where you can find traditional Bosnian coffee pots, called ‘Džezva’. The best Bosnian coffee can be purchased in a Food Street of Baščaršija, left side from the Coppersmith street, in a coffee shop called ‘Šehar’. The preparation of Bosnian coffee before seling is presented for all visitors in ‘Šehar’ coffee shop with old and traditional machines, that do not grind the beans, but actually slightly smashing the beans, turning them in coffee powder, ready to be cooked at home.
A strong correlation among the society and relaxation, not only during Ramadan, all over Sarajevo is actually founded in the cultural, historical and traditional concept of drinking the Bosnian coffee. Do not miss the opportunity to socialize!
GAZI HUSREV BEY MOSQUE
The epicenter for activities and events is Baščaršija, the old town part of Sarajevo. Besides the visits of local restaurants and cafes during Ramadan, take a chance to visit specially Ramadan decorated mosques.
Our suggestion is to firstly visit the most famous mosque, the Gazi Husrev Bey mosque. Its history starts precisely from 1531, the 16th century, built by the orders of Gazi Husrev Bey, still being the largest mosque in Baščaršija.
Besides being a great Bey and builder, Gazi Husrev played a core role in arts and science of the city, where all institutions would be free for visitors. He managed also to establish the Clock Tower (the only clock tower in Europe showing the Lunar calendar), Saray Caravans (places to store their belongings during visits of the city), Fresh water pipes (free use of water system for visitors), Gazi Husrev Bey library, Morica Han (free hotels for visitors), the Public toilet and the Gazi Husrev Bey Bezistan (a 16th century bazaar, that will surely remind you on the big bazaar in Istanbul, named Kapali Carsi).
The mosque represents a great example of Bosnian and Ottoman Islamic architecture, where the whole history of the city started.
The location is very easy to find, literally in the heart of Baščaršija zone, where you will see many worshipers coming to pray, showing you the rich cultural heritage of the city.